Golf Tip of the Week

Golf Tip of the Week #10

Golf Tip:  Here is my final golf tip for this season.  It is important not only that you continue to practice and play your game but learning to handle situations that arise in tournament and competition is important too! Also, having another set of eyes such as a golf instructor work with you can help improve your repeatable golf swing and can help with all phases of your game.  So here is some information about summer tournaments and lessons.  I strongly encourage players to continue to play golf and work on their game thru individual practice and if interested, tournament play or professional instruction.  For the girls we saw great improvement from those that worked on their game last summer to this past fall and the work all of them put in with me on the 4-1 sessions and our weekly practices once the season officially began.  

 

The GSGA Junior Tour is a statewide program managed by the Georgia State Golf Association providing young golfers in Georgia an opportunity to participate in competitive junior golf. Regular membership costs $99 and gives you access to the entire Summer and Fall Series tournament schedules, including member-only events within your division. The rates for registering for tournament varies but if, you are a member it is reduced so, if you are going to play several tournaments, it’s wise to get the full membership. In addition to the lower price for tournaments, they will send you a membership package that includes a GSGA Junior Tour hat, ball marker, 2024 GSGA Junior Tour member bag tag with your name on it and GSGA 2024 Rules of Golf Reference Guide. And if you are not already a member, you’ll get Youth on Course Membership with access to nearly 40 courses to play golf for just $5 (Locally Country Club of Gwinnett, Chimneys and Collins Hill participate in the program.)  You can get all the information about the tournaments and membership at: https://www.georgiajuniorgolf.org.

 

If you’re interested in continuing to play golf possibly in college there are other tours that college coaches follow. The National Junior Golf Association (NJGA) provides affordable and competitive junior golf tournaments. They have tournament in Georgia but also some of the surrounding states.  All of their tournaments provide points for ranking. A lot of junior golfers want to take their game to the next level and becoming a college golfer is difficult but by playing with the NJGA and other tournaments golfers get a chance to meet and talk to college coaches. Membership is $179 and again that provides reduced rates for both one- and two-day tournaments at:  www.nationaljrgolf.org. 

The Peggy Kirk Bell Girls Golf Tour (PKBGT) promotes girls’ golf and is LPGA Foundation approved tour. Their mission is to create more effective, competitive playing opportunities for girls. It utilizes yardage-based divisions instead of the traditional, age-based format, the tour focused on developing tournament experience at the player's pace.  2024 Membership of $99 includes the ability to enter all PKBGT events, including all National & Regional events and the 2024 LPGA-USGA Girls Golf Membership card and gift packet at: https://www.pkbgt.org.

And there is also the Hurricane Junior Golf Tour (HJGT) which is the largest multi-day junior golf tour. It is for both boys and girls between the ages of 8-18, providing a chance to play on a variety of courses and make connections with other players, college coaches and those involved in recruiting players to go on. The HJGT has players of all skill levels, which means serious players can showcase themselves to college coaches. The HJGT has been one of the most successful junior tours. Annual membership is $299 and again that gets you a discount on tournament registrations and gift packet at: https://tournaments.hjgt.org.   If you are only going to play a few of their tournaments you may decide to just pay the non-member cost.

Below I’ve listed the tournaments that are most likely close by for our golfers for this summer. I’ll send you a list of suggested tournaments when the fall schedule comes out. When you register you will be asked to list your skill level or background info.  For the GSGA you need to state beginner, intermediate or advanced.  So, you will register and play with golfers of the same stage of development. For those that were new to golf this year, it would be best to start out with playing the beginners or first-time tournaments. For those that have played in tournaments before, you know the routine and the competition level.  The ones I’ve put an asterisk by are not all local, but they are courses we will likely play in our high school season and possible future locations for Georgia High School Area, Sectional or State Championships.  For those that have played several 18-hole high school tournaments the intermediate and advanced tournaments and for those that want a more advanced schedule with some two-day tournaments, I’ve listed the other organizations I mentioned that schedule tournaments in Georgia.

 

Finally, if you are looking for a local golf instructor there are several that are excellent. Let me know if you have any questions or want suggestions on what tournaments to play or more information about lessons. Coach Witmer

 

For Golf Lessons and Instructional Programs, contact:

Cedar Lake: Golf Teaching Professional Heidi Mitchell at 678-637-2802

Collins Hill; Golf Teaching Professional Adam Wheelus at 770-822-5400

Chimneys:  Elizabeth Clarkston and Ryan Cavey at 770-307-4900

Trophy Club of Apalachee: Jason Hamilton at 678-271-3389 

Monroe Country Club: Golf Teaching Professionals Keith Tanner and Dave McGowan at 770-267-8424

GSGA Schedule:

 

*Wed, May 29 - Thu, May 30, Chimney Oaks Golf Course, Homer, GA

Mon, Jun 3 - Newnan Country Club, Newnan, GA

*Wed, Jun 5 - Mirror Lake Golf Club, Villa Rica, GA

Wed, Jun 5 - Honey Creek Golf & Country Club, Conyers, GA

Mon, Jun 10 - Cedar Lake Golf Club (GIRLS ONLY), Loganville, GA

*Wed, Jun 12 - City Club Marietta, Marietta, GA

Mon, Jun 17 - Cherokee Run GC, Conyers, GA

Tue, Jun 18 – River Pines Golf - Par 3 Course, Johns Creek, GA

Tue, Jun 18 - Stone Mountain Golf Club – Stonemont, Stone Mountain, GA

*Wed, Jun 19 - Cobblestone Golf Course, Acworth, GA

*Mon, Jul 1 - Tue, Jul 2 - Atlanta Junior Classic at Monroe G & CC, Monroe, GA

Tue, Jul 2 - The Creek at Hard Labor. Social Circle, GA

*Mon, Jul 8 - Bentwater Golf Club, Acworth, GA

Tue, Jul 9 - Echelon Golf Club, Alpharetta, GA

Thu, Jul 11 - Mystery Valley Golf Club, Lithonia, GA

Mon, Jul 22 - Wed, Jul 24 - GSGA Jr Invitational Championship at Laurel Springs, Suwanee, GA

 

NJGA Schedule:

 

May 4 - Georgia Junior Classic, Providence GC, Monroe, GA

Jul 15 - Athens Junior Championship, Lane Creek, Bishop, GA

 

 

Peggy Kirk Bell Girls Golf Tour (PKBGT) Schedule:

 

Mon, June 3- Bobby Jones Golf Course, Atlanta, GA

Mon, June 10 - Cedar Lake GC, Loganville, GA

Wed, July 3 - UGA Athens GC, Athens, GA

Tues, July 9 - Sun City Peachtree GC, Griffin, GA

           

Hurricane Junior Golf Tour (HJGT):

 

May 18-19 - Atlanta Junior Open at Bears Best, Suwanee, GA

*June 1-2 - North Georgia Junior Open at The Chimney's, Winder, GA

June 26-27 - Atlanta Junior Open at Hamilton Mill, Dacula, GA

July 10-11 - College Prep Series at UGA, Athens, GA        

*July 27-28 - Bears Best Junior Open, Suwanee, GA


Golf Tip of the Week #9

Hope everyone had a great Spring Break. Time to get back and play some golf! As we get near GHSA tournament time, all of us-- coaches, players and parents need to be aware of the procedures and rules on contact and advice during play.  Coaches may of course give advice to our players during play. We as coaches can give advice in all areas, excepting the greens. Parents, siblings or spectators may NOT give any advice and during tournament play should refrain from any talking about the golfers play. Reminder that during tournament play, parents need to remain on the cart paths and if a need arises for medicine, food, equipment, etc., check with a coach first. If a situation comes up, like can I help find a lost ball, best to get clarification ahead of time! Coach Witmer

Rule Tip of the Week:  GHSA guidelines list the that a maximum of two (2) golf coaches may confer with their golfers anywhere on the course with the exception of the greens, so long as there is no delay in play. Conversations with or suggestions from any other person is prohibited (First violation: warning. Second violation: 2-stroke penalty. Third violation: disqualification.)  Range finders and GPS devices will be allowed in match and tournament play with the following stipulations: in each grouping (2-4 players), if any player uses a “range finder” then all players will have access to the distance information. Any player using a device who does not share the distance information with other players in his grouping, when asked, will be subject to disqualification for a serious breach of etiquette.  Single function GPS devices that measure distance are allowed. Any device that performs multiple functions may be used for distance only. Use of any other functions may lead to disqualification.  Smart Phones and watches that include yardage book information may be used during play. Any use of devices like cell phones is limited to scoring (I Wannamaker) as well as what is covered under the USGA rules that govern “artificial devices.”

Playing Tip of the Week: My playing tip actually involves a rule tip as well. New Rule 5.6 encourages prompt pace of play by recommending that players should recognize that their pace of play affects others and they should play promptly throughout the round such as by preparing in advance for each stroke and moving promptly between strokes and in going to the next tee. A player should make a stroke in no more than 40 seconds (and usually in less time) after the player is able to play without interference or distraction. In tournament play if a group is considered out of position like over a hole behind and/or holding up another group), they can be “put on the clock” and if that continues be penalized.  That usually doesn’t happen in area, section or state play. But groups may receive a warning to speed it up! A lot of times when one player is slowing down the group it does not become a penalty but often does affect the other golfer’s routine and sometimes their rhythm and score!  It’s not good rushing as panicked golf can lead to more slow golf due to bad shots!  Better results are often seen when groups are encouraged to walk faster instead of play faster. Some holes are tough, par 3s play faster than par 5s, and many other things that may impact a group play like hitting into a hazard, or a lost ball (3 minutes search time). Here are a couple things that you can do.  Get in routine, don’t take too many practice swings. Get behind your ball and think about your aim. I often take my practice swing there.  Then move to you ball and visualize your shot, practice full swing or I just practice my take-away and commit to the shot.  Move with a steady pace. Same thing when putting. Have a routine and don’t stand over your ball a long time. Muscles tighten and that can affect your putting motion.  If a player in your group is struggling and slowing everyone down, don’t make it worse. Encourage them and walk with or near them at a good pace so they might pick it up.  

 

 

 


Golf Tip of the Week #8

Rule Tip of the Week:  When your ball is unplayable.

 

You have three options if your ball is considered “unplayable” where it lies. Some will attempt to hit the ball from where it is, though this is very tricky and can end in frustration for the player, especially if you are unable to get the ball out of the area. Everyone wants to advance the ball but there is risk and reward in shots when your ball is in a bad lie, i.e., among trees, brush, thick or tall grass or weeds, etc. As a coach the best advice I give is, get out of trouble with minimum damage! One way is if possible, hitting laterally or even backward to get the ball into a position for your next shot. Another is simply by taking a one-shot unplayable penalty, you are able to hit the ball from the point of your previous shot, drop the ball two club lengths behind where the ball landed not getting closer to the hole, or drop the ball to either side again within two club lengths of where it lies and again, without getting closer to the hole. If you decide to play it under the rule of golf 23-1, any loose impediment can be removed from and around the golf ball anywhere on or off the golf course, including in bunkers and penalty areas, (even when your ball lies in the bunker or penalty area—a rule change from the way it used to be!) . For example, if a ball comes to rest in the rough or off the fairway and there are leaves, little sticks all around or loose pine straw, the golfer can clear these away and not incur a penalty. Loose impediments are unattached natural objects like stones, loose grass, leaves, pine straw, branches, clumps and including aerated plugs this time of the year. Just be careful in doing so that you do not move your ball!  You are not allowed to move attached articles that improve your stance, swing or back swing. This would include breaking off tree branch or pulling up a large plant or thick weeds to improve your backswing or stroke.  Rule 13-2 requires that we must not improve the area of our intended stance or swing by moving, bending or breaking anything growing, but that no penalty is incurred if we do so in 'fairly taking a stance'.

 

 

Playing Tip of the Week: The take-away

 

Every golf swing begins with the takeaway and it is critical for how the rest of the swing is performed. If you can start each swing along the right path, keeping the club in a good position early on, there’s a much greater chance that the rest of your backswing will follow that good path – and that in turn will promote a good downswing and a solid, straight strike on the golf ball. There are a couple of very useful checkpoints that you can use to make sure your swing begins on the best possible path. For the first movement of the golf swing, take the club back and stop and here are a few checkpoints:

 

The start of the takeaway allows the left shoulder to turn under your chin (for the right-handed golfer). The left arm straight and the hands passive (no wrist movement—flip or lift). The club needs to be parallel to the ground and the club head straight up, if open or to the outside on the downside the ball will go to the right, if closed (towards the inside) the ball will go to the left. By this movement the hips should automatically start to turn, the front knee pointing towards the ball.  This simple and correct take away is the first part of a good swing! 


Golf Tip of the Week #7

Players;  Here is a very timely playing tip.  We have a boys and also girls match scheduled at Monroe Golf and Country Club. The have recently aerated their  golf putting greens.  Read below on what that means and how to handle that situation when putting on greens that have punched holes filled with sand on them.  Also, the rule tip actually I saw come into play twice this week.  A player hit another player’s golf bag on a shot and also—one hit my coach’s cart.  What to do when that happens—read the rule tip!  Coach Witmer

 

Rule Tip of the week:  Accidental Deflections

          

There is NO PENALTY if a golfer’s ball strikes someone else’s equipment (golf bag, another player, coaches cart, etc..)  The  ball would be played from where it comes to rest. Players do need to be alert and not move in front or be in the line of another player hitting their ball. But if another player hits you or your bag there is no penalty and the ball is played where it comes to rest.  Also Rule 11 covers what to do if your ball in motion comes back and hits you. This may happen when hitting out a of a deep sand trap and it hits the side of the bunker and bounces back and hits you. There is no penalty and you play it now as it lies. Also, the rule has changed and say when you hit a chip shot with a lofted wedge on your upswing you accidently hit it again—a double hit--there is no penalty and you play it again where it comes to rest.

 

Playing tip of the week:  Something that happens with golf course maintenance this time of the year involves putting greens. Some of our courses aerify their golf putting greens. It’s an annual or semi-annual process and depending on the type of grass, it can be done in the spring and/or the fall.  It consists of punching little holes into greens (and sometimes fairways) that opens up growing room for grass roots and helps keep the turfgrass healthy. They use a machine that punches holes and removes the dirt (plugs). The holes left behind are filled with sand in a process called topdressing. The topdressing gradually disappears as watering takes place. The actual coring of the greens is a quick process, but from the time of the coring until the greens are somewhat back to normal is a couple weeks process. So, you may notice some putting greens that have a sandy appearance. We still are able to play on them. But how do you putt on aerated greens?

 

I have found the following 5 tips to make the most of the putting opportunities on aerated greens:

 

On putts inside of 10 feet, hit the putt with some extra speed. The slower the putt the more chance the little holes or bumps will affect the roll.

On putts of 12-15 feet, play a little less break.

On longer lag putts, the goal should be to get it inside of a 3 foot circle.

Keep your expectations realistic. The rough surface may turn the ball and miss what was otherwise a good putt!

Keep your putter face and golf ball clean and sand free.

 


Golf Tip of the Week 3/17/24

Two good tips this week that come into play this time of year in our tournaments.  A good idea to take some time and read and study these tips. Also, last time I talked about reading greens. Coach Graham sent me a link to a video tip from one the great professional putters—Brad Faxon. Linked below

Coach Witmer

 Golf Tip of the Week continued 3/17

Rule Tip: How to correctly play a provisional ball.

 

Golf rules allow you to play what is called a provisional ball to save time.  Walking all the way to where your ball landed to confirm that it is lost or out of bounds and then walking all the way back to the spot of your previous stroke would not be good for pace of play. The exception n to this is when a local rule is in effect-allowing you to take a 2- stroke penalty and play your ball two club lengths into the fairway lateral to where the ball went out of bounds or is lost. But before doing this, make sure there was a local rule in effect.  If not, USGA rules allow a provisional ball to be played.

 

So, there are two times when the Rules of Golf allow you to play a provisional all:

1.  When your ball might be out of bounds (OB). 

2.  When it might be lost.

 

There are two things you must do before playing a provisional ball. First you must tell another person in your group that you want to play a provisional and then you must play it before you go forward to look for your original ball. After playing a provisional ball, which ball are you supposed to continue playing?

 

 

However, you are not allowed to play a provisional ball if the only place your original ball might be lost is in a water hazard.  You are allowed to play a provisional ball if you ball might have gone into a water hazard as

long as it might also be lost somewhere outside of that water hazard.

 

What if you find your ball after hitting a provisional? If it transpires that the original ball is lost outside of a penalty area or out of bounds, you must continue with the provisional ball, under penalty of stroke and distance. If the original ball is found in bounds, you must continue with that ball and not play or stop playing the provisional ball. If you do find you ball in the penalty area, then your provisional ball has to be abandoned and you have to proceed with playing the original or taking relief. When so doing with any of these situations, let your playing partners know what is happening! What happens if you hit your provisional ball OB or think it may be lost?  The rules do allow you to play another provisional ball if you think your first and second attempts might both be OB or lost. Of course, you would need to again declare your intention to play another provisional to your playing partners before you make the shot. One final thing—DO NOT pick up a provisional ball until you have determined whether your original ball is in play.

 

Playing Tip:  The bump and run chip shot

 

Just like the name suggests, you simply bump the ball onto the green and let it roll up to the hole. Minimum time in the air and maximum time rolling on the green.  The idea is to keep the ball as low as possible, only lofting as much as necessary to get over what lies between you and the putting surface. If you have not mastered, and even then, loft or flop shops can cause problems of checking up to soon or the treacherous bladed shot that goes off the other side of the green! Also to make the ball go higher you have to make a bigger golf swing, which of course invites more room for error.

 

The bump and run is a good shot before and in the early spring before the courses have greened up.  Hitting from a tight lie, bare ground or matted dormant grass with a lofted wedge increases the chances of blading the ball or chunking it especially if the ground is wet or muddy. 

 

So, what’s the technique behind the bump and run?  I teach this to my Middle School golfers and the best reaction I ever got from a young beginner was when he looked at me and said, “coach, is this like a super putt?”  There is a lot if similarity as the goal is to get it on the green and have it roll as a putt.  So, yes, you’re reading the contour of the green just like you would for a long putt!  You can use any club in your bag for a bump and run. The more you want the ball to release and roll when it hits the ground, the lower the loft you should use. If you want the ball to come out just a bit higher with some backspin, choose a club with more loft. 

 

The size of the pendulum swing that you make will also influence the distance. Play the ball center or slightly back of center for most shots. This is a preference however. If you want the ball to come out with more loft, simply play it left of center. If you want it to come out low and hot with more roll, play it further back. Choke up on the club an inch or two for more control. Stand with your feet the same as putt or even closer to each other. Set up square with your feet, knees hips and shoulders. You can set up a bit open, but again this is a preference, not a necessity. Place 75% of your weight on your front foot and keep it there. Make sure to feel as if your head and chest are over or slightly in front of the ball. This will help you to hit down with a descending blow. Forward press your hands a slight bit. I like to place mine towards or at the middle of my front thigh. Now simply make a one- piece pendulum stroke just like you would if you were putting. Allow your hips to make a small pivot towards the target. Make sure to hit down on the ball finishing with a flat front wrist and club head low to the ground. I often use the rule of 1/3. A bump with and 7,8 or 9 iron trying to get the ball on the green one third of the way to the pin and let it roll. Again, that might depend on the slope and contour of the green, Practice this shot—it can be a stroke saver!

 


Golf Tip of the Week 3/6/24

My tips this week are longer than usual but both the rule tip and the playing tip are really important.  Playing after your ball lands in a penalty area first can be frustrating because you landed there and can also be confusing if you don’t know the rules. We see players struggle with this in most every match and tournament.  If you know the rules, you will be able to take advantage in making the best decision to play on with minimum impact.  Don’t compound the situation of a bad shot by then either not making the best choice or even violating the rule and get an additional penalty. Ask your coaches to go over this with you when playing a practice round and you come upon a red or yellow staked penalty area. And next time on the practice putting green, invest some time in reading the greens and putting when faced with uneven terrain. Coach Witmer

 

Rule tip of the week: What do you do when ball lands in a penalty area?

 

First, if conditions allow you may always play the ball as it lies without penalty. You now may ground your club and you may remove loose impediments. But is that wise and your best alternative?

Next, if you determine it to be unplayable, you need to note if the penalty area is marked with red or yellow stakes. Why? There are different options. Either way you face a penalty stroke and that means wherever you take relief, it will be two club lengths to determine the relief area.

 

For a Red Stake penalty area, you have three options.

 

1.Take stroke and distance relief by going back to where you hit your last shot and then playing a ball from that relief area.

2. Take back on line relief by dropping the ball outside the penalty area, keeping the point where the ball entered the penalty area and the pin in line. You can establish the relief area anywhere on that line. This if often misunderstood and unfortunately may times it is the best option. Although you may lose some distance you may gain a good line of sight and a level area for relief to drop your ball.

3. Here is the violation I have seen the most. You only can take lateral relief in a red staked area and not a yellow staked area.  When establishing your drop area. It is the POINT OF ENTRY, not where you think the ball landed. So, you can take lateral relief,  two club lengths not closer to the pin from where the ball entered the penalty area.





 

For a Yellow Stake penalty area, you can take only two of the options available for the red stake relief--you do not get lateral relief!

 

1. Take stroke-and-distance relief by playing a ball from a relief area based on where the previous stroke was made.

2. Take back on the line relief by dropping a ball outside the penalty area, keeping the point where the ball entered the penalty area between the hole and the spot along that line where you decide to establish your relief area two club lengths and drop the ball.

 



 

 

Playing Tip of the Week:  When putting reading greens correctly

 

Last week I talked about the importance of learning the fundamentals of the putting stroke.  Additionally, learning how to read putting greens is an essential skill that can significantly improve your golf game. It should start before you step on the green. As you’re walking onto the green look around and see which way the green tilts--high side and low side. Before you mark the ball assess any slope as you walk to your ball.  If you’re not away to putt first, continue to look around and fully grasp the terrain of the green. Don’t waste that time and opportunity. When reading greens, you’ll never find a green that is totally flat! So, remember that every green has spots on it where a rolling ball will break one way or the other. The high point is where you should aim your putt to start the ball on the right line. The speed of your putt is a critical factor in reading greens. Faster putts typically break less, while slower putts tend to break more. Analyze the distance to the hole and adjust your line accordingly. For longer putts, you may need to aim farther away from the high point to account for the increased break. And for longer putts to find that aiming point walk along the low side from your ball to the hole and circle around the back of the hole. At the hole the terrain may flatten out or sometimes you may be unlucky enough to have a double breaker where before the hole it breaks the other way. I can’t believe the number of times I’ve seen someone not walk to the hole and only get their line from in back of their ball, quickly putt it and then say, after their ball went the wrong way and now lies several feet from the hole, “why did it go that way!”  For short putts, stand behind your ball with feet apart to feel any slope with your feet. You can take a few steps forward still straddling the ball to even get more of a feel of any slope with your feet. For both long and short putts, you should crouch down to get a ground level view of break or uphill or downhill lies. Speed control is vital. The joke is, “a high percentage of short putts don’t go in!”  Know the length of your backswing to generate speed. Most putts on a sloping line are missed on the low side. When practicing, find a slope on practice green and place a series of tees on the line you think is just above your line to the hole. Putt on line below the tees to get a feel for how your ball breaks taking into account your speed. And once you have established your line. Don’t take several practice putting strokes or stand over the ball for a long time as this tightens the muscles—commit to it and putt it! One last thing--on bent grass greens notices which way the grass grain runs—if towards you your ball will roll slower and with the grain it will roll faster.  On Bermuda grass the greens thickness and whether it’s wet or dry will impact speed.

 

Tour pros make less than 25% of 10-14 ft putts. But when the miss from there, they probably make 98 to 99% of their next shot because they still read the green and are close by. What are your chances of missing from 10-14 feet and being close enough to make your next putt? Leaning to read greens correctly will help eliminate 3 or even 4 putts and lower your score!

 


Golf Tip of the Week 3/1/24

Rules Tip of the week:  Lift, Clean, and Place

 

This is a local rule – meaning for tournaments and matches, the tournament rules committee (usually hosting school) has deemed that adjustments must be made to make the course fair.  Usually happens after we have had rain resulting in wet or muddy conditions that remain.  This is not a numbered rule as USGA does not have a rule for this, simply recommendations. Either your coaches will be given instructions on this by the tournament committee to pass along to you before you start and/or if there is a starter they will include in their instructions. The most important thing is to be clear on where relief is allowed. You will be told for example, lift, clean and place fairways to greens, or possibly,  if abnormal conditions persist, general area meaning fairways and rough, but not hazards.  Maybe if water is in bunkers you may be given instructions for that too! Also, be clear on how much relief is allowed, i.e., scorecard, club-length, etc. Just to be clear, when doing this first, mark your ball with tee or marker, then lift ball and clean off any mud or dirt, and then replace it within the distance allowed. You do not drop it from the knee, but place it on the ground in the best spot allowed no closer to the pin!

 

 

Playing Tip of the week:  Golf is unique in that you drive the ball with a big-headed club, hit different lofted irons to certain distances, chip the ball on short shots and finally on the green putt the ball. So, today I want to talk about putting. Any guide to putting should start with the address. Place the putter head that it is flat on the practice putting green. Now move to the putter as it stands up and grip it. Bend over at the waist until your head is directly over the ball. (See photo of Golf Pro Justin Thomas below.)  That is the normal putting stance that you should always take. Often I see golfers get too close or too far away. The ball needs to be positioned so that it is slightly forward. Ideally you want to make contact with the ball slightly on the upstroke. You can help ensure that by positioning the ball in line with your left eye (for right handers). For a moment close the right eye and look directly down at the ball to insure this.  From this position the bottom of the arc of the putter will begin to rise as it makes contact with the ball. This will help to ensure that the ball rolls out smoothly and helps your distance control. Notice that I said rolls. You’re not hitting or striking the ball when you putt-- your arc swing is actually rolling the ball! From tee to green, ball position is a vital element to always get right and when wrong is the cause for many a miss hit! One other common problem is when the backstroke is longer than the following through. Common traits that cause 3 and 4 putts once on the green are when golfers pop at the ball when putting or when making contact, stop and do not follow through. All this causes poor or inconsistent distance control. On the practice green put a tee a few inches in back of your back foot and one a few inches but the same distance in front of your front foot.  Practice your putting stroke to make sure you’re going from tee to tee and not stopping when you make contact with the ball. Practice time on the putting green needs to be working on drills that improve putting—just not hitting the ball to the hole! One of the keys to putting is that the club is controlled by a rock of the shoulders and not by a flick of the wrists or a separation of the arms and the body. You need to keep the arms, shoulders and wrists in unison in a controlled movement. (See the illustration below.) That’s called rhythm--some like to say to themselves tick-tock when practicing putting to get that feel! And of course, you will also need to read the greens well to keep your score down and I’ll give a tip on that next time. For now, practice and focus on your putting technique. Coach Witmer


Bronco Golf Tip of the Week 2/26/24

Rules Tip:

 

Q:  What happens if the ball is teed up in front of the markers?

A: You cannot tee up in front of the tee markers or you will be penalized two strokes.

 

Q:  What happens if you accidently hit the ball on your practice swing?

 A: A ball accidentally hit on the Tee Box on practice swing, or accidently tapped off the tee when placing driver,  replace to its original spot with NO Penalty.  However, anywhere else (General Area - Fairway, Rough, Penalty Area) – If you accidently hit or move the ball, replace to original spot with a penalty of one stroke. However, it’s the same as on the tee box when on the green-- if the ball is accidentally hit, kicked,  or dropped while marking, placing or aligning putt. Replace to original spot with NO Penalty.

 

Playing Tip; 

 

Believe it or not I’ve seen players tee the ball up in front of tees many times—probably accidently because one of the markers was on an angle or they were just routinely teeing the ball up as far front as possible and didn’t realize it.  Why does everyone want to tee the ball up as far front between the tee markers as possible—you’re only gaining a couple feet in distance,  if any? The tee box is just that. It’s probably really a rectangle that is formed as you may tee up two club lengths behind the tee markers.  Here’s a good tip. This time of the year, there may be little grass growing in the tee box and that spot between the tees may be worn and unlevel to stand.  Find a spot somewhere within the tee box area (again the area formed between the tee markers extending two club lengths backward),  where it’s level and you have good footing!  Can you stand to one side of the tee box? Yes. Must your feet be in the tee box. No, just the ball must be within the tee box area. You may stand with your feet outside the box. Does it matter what side of the tee box you stand on when hitting a tee shot?  Most golfers stand right in the middle of the tee box? Why? Probably habit and their routine of teeing the ball up there.  That’s why as coaches we are always asking you, where are you aiming?  Golfers whether they are adept at always controlling their drive or not should tee up on the same side of the box as where the trouble lies in the fairway. This is good advice as you want to feel like you can aim away from the trouble. You must also consider the best angle of attack to the pin. You need to land your ball not just away from any potential trouble (water, woods or sand), but also in a spot that will give you a clear shot to the pin. Keep in mind your natural ball flight. If you are a player that has the ball go from left to right naturally, you would want to set up on the right side of the tee box to open up the left side and give your ball room to curve. The opposite is true if you natural flight path is from right to left.  With that being said, I don't believe you should ever aim at trouble even if you think you will curve the ball. It's just way too risky. Always go for the reward, not the risk!


Bronco Golf Tip of the Week 2/17/24: 

Rule tip—How many club lengths do you get when taking relief? This question often comes up. One club length if free relief and two club lengths if shot penalty. And remember that extends backwards in arc for a drop area. You don’t need to drop the ball from your knee along the front line of club lengths. Look for the best lie possible within that area! 

Playing tip --Nothing can be more frustrating that to hit a grounder, fat shot or shank in golf.  We see it more often from a difficult lie.  We see great improvement when hitting off the mats or level ground at the practice range.  But what happens when the ball is on a slope?  If on a downhill lie and you take your normal stance and swing, you’re likely to hit just the top of the ball causing a grounder.  Players need to adjust and have their shoulders on the same plane as the ground. That sounds easy but often not done even by those that play the game often. Also, from a downhill lie you usually get a lower shot that travels farther and because the club releases faster the ball will usually go more to the left for a right-handed golfer.  Results, aim more to the right and use a more lofted club than normal. An uphill lie is an easier shot but on an uphill lie again the shoulders should be on the same plane as the ground. If not, the player will often hit in back of the ball or chunk it and hit it high and short of the target—too much loft on the ball!  Again, because the shot will go higher and not as far use a less lofted club and aim a little left as the tenancy is to not be able to follow thru and the club might be a little more open at impact. What if the slope is to one side and where your feet are below or above the ball.  If below the ball choke up on the club and aim right as the ball will go left— ball will favor going in the direction of the slope of the ground you’re hitting from. If your feet are above the ball, just the opposite— make sure your club is at full-length and your hands are as far up on the grip as possible.  You need to sit or bend knees a little more to make sure you make good contact and not hit it off the toe of the club.  This time aim left as the ball will go right again favoring the slope that you’re hitting from.  I still have little cards from when I first started playing golf that I carried with me that these steps are listed on as to how to hit from uneven lies. Here they are –maybe make a copy for your golf bag!

Uphill lie

Downhill lie

Sidehill lie when ball above your feet

Sidehill lie when ball below your feet,


Golf Tip of the Week 2/7/24:  Dropping from a cart path or ground under repair or an abnormal course condition. I see this one incorrectly used often by players.  Many times, players choose a wrong dropping area or do it incorrectly.

 

Rule 16 covers when and how you may take free relief by playing a ball from a different place, such as when you have interference by an abnormal course condition or even a dangerous animal condition which for us often includes fire ants!  What is the Rule?

 

16.1 Abnormal Course Conditions (Including Immovable Obstructions).   This Rule covers free relief that is allowed from interference by animal holes, ground under repair, immovable obstructions or temporary water. These are collectively called abnormal course conditions, but each has a separate definition. Animal holes are pretty obvious.  Ground under repair is usually marked by white paint on the course and we’re often told about it before we start the round. Immovable obstructions – cart path, bridges, fans, etc. Often referred to as “man-made objects.” Temporary water is usually puddles or just very squishy wet, muddy ground from recent rain or maybe an overflow issue.

 

16.2b A dangerous animal condition exists when a dangerous animal (for us, maybe snakes, stinging bees, fire ants, etc.) near a ball could cause harm to the player if they had to play the ball as it lies. You may take relief from this condition no matter where the ball is on the course.

 

When do you get a drop?  Interference exists when your ball touches or is in or on an abnormal course condition.  An abnormal course condition physically interferes with your area of intended stance or area of intended swing, or when your ball is on the putting green, an abnormal course condition on or off the putting green intervenes on your line of play.  There is no free relief from an abnormal course condition when the abnormal course condition is out of bounds or your ball is in a penalty area.

 

What is the correct procedure for a drop? https://www.usga.org/content/usga/home-page/rules/rules-2019/players-edition/rule-16.html

  

Remember the take-aways

3. DO NOT move your ball until the relief points has been established.

4.. Penalty for an improper drop – 2 strokes

 

If you have questions on this or at one of our practices Coach Billings or I can go over this with you.  Coach Witmer.